Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Saturday, July 26, 2008

convo with a reader.


I am a 17 year old 5'9 to 5'10 male who is interested in persuring the world of high fashion. from photo shoots in Toronto, Ontario to fashion shows in Milan, Italy and even fashion week in New York City, Skinny Minnie...I want to do it all!. I've been told by alot of my friends that I should be modeling. I've even been told by people I dont know that I shoud be modeling. But I have a problem, I just dont know where to start. I was contacted my a modeling agency, Max Agencys for an interview after being randomly stopped on the street in Downtown Toronto by a talent scout. My parents forbid me to go and I felt like my Dream of modeling was coming to and end far to quickly. So my question for you is, What should I do now? Do you see potencial? and as far as pictures how should I be dressed?

from,
A young male looking for abit of guidance.



RESPONSE:

Max is bad, first of all...in toronto giovanni is one of the better ones, they won't screw you around and they are 100% high fashion. i model myself and i am not opposed to shooting with newer photogs...some of them are amazing, but look at their portfolio first and compare it to what you would see in a magazine to decide whether or not to shoot with them (save some $$ with newer photogs and students)...look for lighting and all that stuff in their photography.
as for what you should be wearing, men should have some underwear shots, as well as slim fitting suits (never hide your shape with loose clothing), and also go for a more high fashion edgy look if that is the market that interests you, high fashion male models are generally 5'11" and up, so assuming you're still growing its all good, otherwise you can always stick to a more commercial look.

But, whatever you do, stay away from max models, and don't pay $$ to an agency for anything. the only thing you should have to pay for is comp cards and enlargements (but enlargements i usually go through the photography)

good luck...perhaps join model mayhem to find photogs..but stay away from shitty photographers...they are a waste of time!!!!
------------------------

READERS' COMMENTS:

thank u 4 sending out the info :) we need to let peeps know that there r predators & scammers out there. One company that rips of peeps is NORTHERN STYLES & NATIVE TALENT & SMEX
given ya the heads up
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This is a really good thing to know....there are a lot of young girls out there that end up losing a good amount of money because of these scam schools! It is important to be informed and educated about what is out there and for parents to especially be informed....good stuff!

education at its finest?

MODEL SCHOOL SCAMS

Most modeling schools charge $1000 to $2000 or more for a few weeks of classes and a "portfolio" they will put together for you by paying someone $50 or so to take a few quick pictures of you upon "graduation.

"FACT: Assuming you have real potential, every top agent in the world will tell you that - instead of attending a modeling school - you would be infinitely better off putting most of your time and effort into getting great pictures, where it counts. Want to learn how to walk a runway? It does not have to be expensive. Instead of paying a school to teach you outdated methods for big money, simply go to a fashion show at the mall, introduce yourself to one of the models there and offer him/her $50 or so for an hour or two of their time."

But their ads say that a famous model went to their school. "Maybe he or she did, but he or she probably drank milk too. (Just because someone went to a modeling school does not mean that is what made them successful.) Want to go to a "model camp" or a modeling school for fun or for something to do after school? Great. Just don't expect a whole lot to come of it.

Things you need to know about modeling schools:
1. You do not need to go to a modeling school to become a model.
2. There isn't a modeling school in the world that can teach you to be tall.
3. There isn't a modeling school in the world that can teach you to be photogenic.
4. You will get the experience and training you need through test shoots, on the job experience, through conversations with your agent or personal manager, and, if necessary, from brief classes arranged, often for free, by your agent.
5. A lot of what modeling schools teach is just plain wrong. Some schools have instructors that used to be models 20 years ago and - and that's if you're lucky. A lot of instructors aren't models at all, and never were. They're just graduates of the same schools, imperfectly passing on what they learned - and all you are going to pick up from them are bad habits.
6. Pictures from modeling schools won't cut it in the real world. OK, once in a while a school gets lucky and they get real, professional quality pictures done for their models. But the vast majority of the time you get junk. The school counts on the students and their parents not knowing any better, and they (the schools) are usually correct. So all the money you spend on pictures through the school is wasted.
7. They don't tell you what you really need to know. At least, not if it keeps them from selling you classes, or pictures, or attendance at expensive modeling conventions they say you should attend. A school (no matter what they tell you) is NOT an agency. Schools make their money by taking it from you, not making it for you - so you can't count on them to tell you certain things.

What are some of the things schools won't tell you?
a. There isn't much modeling work in small towns and you can't be a model in the big city unless you live in the big city.
b. With very few exceptions, no modeling agency in any major market is going to front expenses for you to move there to work with them.
c. Talent buyers (people who actually hire models) don't care that you've been to modeling school.
d. You don't need to know how to walk on a runway. OK, maybe if you are a very tall, very skinny teenage girl you do, but someone that knows what they are doing can teach you that in an hour. No one else needs to learn how to walk a runway as that's not the kind of modeling they will be doing.
e. No photographer can take good portfolio pictures of ten people in one day - and shouldn't even try - as that would be totally unfair to the models.

How to detect and avoid a model scam
When it comes to detecting and avoiding model scams - knowledge is your best protection so learn everything you can about how the industry actually works - most of which can be found right here on models advocate. Depend on reliable sources of information. Bulletin boards, chat rooms, web sites, etc., are not always reliable sources of information as quite often the writer has a hidden agenda - and even the bigger agencies will use the bulletin boards (or any other ways and means at their disposal) to attempt to discredit others and make make themselves look good. These agencies (yes, even some of the biggest ones) will never tell you that they are splitting fees with the photographers they refer models to which is illegal in New York, California, Florida and Texas - and highly unethical everywhere else. But it still goes on, and it goes on much more frequently than any of them will ever admit.

When considering what someone is offering or suggesting, ask yourself the following questions:
1. Is what they are doing legal?
2. Does what they are suggesting make sense?
3. What exactly what I am paying for?
4. Will it provide a benefit?

Asking for references.
Asking for references is one way to check someone out - but maybe not the best way. (Do you really think anyone would give you names of people that would say something bad about them?) The Better Business Bureau.
Professional scammers know they have will have at least six months to a year before complaints start coming in to consumer protection organizations such as the Better Business Bureau so, by the time complaints start piling up, they have already made plans to change the name of their business and/or move to a different city or a different state and start over again. What sort of references are meaningful then? Look at things like length of time in business, membership in business and professional organizations, tear sheets, newspaper and magazine articles and other items you can readily see. How about asking for phone numbers for other models? Would you want someone giving your name and phone number out several times a day? Would you like to have people calling you all hours of the day and night to complain that you are not returning their long distance calls? Then how could you expect busy models to do so? (It can't hurt to ask though.)
Model Agency Scams.
How can you tell is an agency is legit?
Real agencies operate Monday through Friday, 9 am to 5 pm business. If you are contacted to attend an "Open Call" or "Talent Review" make sure it's between these hours. Be suspicious if they ask you to come in later in the evening or on the weekend. (Real agencies are not open on weekends.)
Look around at the caliber of the "talent" around you. (Legit agencies don't want to be bothered with a roomful of wannabes.) Be further suspicious if most of the people in the room recently went to a modeling convention. Most of the fake agencies buy "leads" from these conventions and they will pay up to $5 per lead just to get your name and phone number.
Also, look to see if there is a state issued employment agency license on the wall. (Note however, that just because you see a business license or a state issued booking agency license on the wall - this does NOT necessarily mean the agency is legit.)
The most common modeling agency scam is what is known as a "portfolio mill" or "photo mill". This is an "agency" that makes money by sending models to photographers that are ON STAFF to shoot expensive photos to produce worthless portfolios and comp cards. These agencies don't make much money by booking real work. Instead, they sign up anyone and everyone for low quality photo shoots and book very few jobs, if any. A legitimate agency will give you what is known as a test list. This is a list of good photographers in your area that you can contact on your own. A real agency will not ask you for money for photography services, enlargements or comp card printing. They may suggest a few places, but they will advise you go see them on your own. Be very suspicious if an agency asks you to pay them for a test shoot instead instructing you to pay the photographer direct. Be very suspicious if an agency asks you to pay them for enlargements, comp cards, etc. instead of instructing you to pay the photographer or the printing company direct.
How to further protect yourself from model agency scams and photo mill promoters.
Never pay an agency for the "privilege" of having them represent you or for "classes" or runway training or pictures. In fact, NEVER buy anything from or through a model or talent agency. Under no circumstances should an agency require you to attend a particular class or to buy anything from them - not books, not photos, not classes, not workshops, not runway training, not tote bags, not "exposure" on web sites or on CDs or in some "talent book," not videos, not portrfoios, not comp cards, not address labels, not ANYTHING. This practice is not only unethical, it is also ILLEGAL. An agent's income should come solely from commissions received through finding work for models and/or talent. A real agency will put you in touch with a real photographer so you can make your own arrangements for test shoots, etc. Most beginner models are walking around with amateur photos featuring glamorous makeup, low cut tops, floral print dresses, large hoop earrings and outfits that don't quite fit properly. In other words, most of them have spent a lot of money and/or have put a lot of effort into photo shoots that will ultimately prove to be worthless.
Beware of "TFP" photo shoots, school photographers, "photo day" photographers, student photographers, glamour photographers and the like as the resulting photos will invariably turn out to be too amateurish, too glamorous and/or very rarely in the style needed to qualify you for paying jobs in the real world. Beginning models often convince themselves that by shooting with amateurs they are saving money or getting something for nothing but - in reality - all amateur looking photos will do them more harm than good. Your portfolio should sell YOU - not sex, not clothing, not jewelry, not makeup and DEFINITELY not some amateur photographer's concept of what a model should look like.
How to detect a model scam and avoid being victimized
When you sign on for something, know what you are getting. If you are paying for web presence, then that is what you can reasonably expect to get.If you are paying for a photo session, then that is what you can reasonably expect to get. If you end up signing with a real agency or if you get some kind of modeling contract out of it as a result, consider it a bonus.
Don't forget: A legitimate company will NOT promise employment. There is no way an agency or a manager or anyone else can guarantee you work. No one can not predict the future and a real agent or manager will not pretend to speak for those who will consider you for hire. No matter how good a company is and no matter what they may do for you, you may never become a $2,000 a day model. If that is the case, it may not be the company's fault. It could be that the clients just didn't select you no matter how hard the company you signed with tried to get you work. In many cases (quite often in fact) new models are so inflexible and have such a long list of conditions and demands - or they have such unreasonable expectations - or their appearance changes so drastically - that they make it almost impossible for themselves get signed or booked. Just because you didn't get work, does not necessarily mean the company was a scam - whether you paid them anything or not. If you got what you paid for, then you have no complaint. You may not have gotten the results you and possibly everyone else were hoping for, but if you got what you paid for - you were not scammed.
Anytime someone offers you a verbal or written guarantee or attempts to use high pressure tactics on you or tries to coerce you into buying something from them, get up and walk out. Don't spend a lot of money and don't sign up for what you don't understand. Know what you are paying for and you should be OK. It isn't all that hard to figure out.
NEVER FORGET: Never buy anything from or through a model or talent agency.
Under no circumstances should an agency require you to attend a particular class, or to buy anything from them - not books, not photos, not classes, not workshops, not runway training, not tote bags, not listings on web sites or on CDs or in some "talent book," not videos, not "comp cards," not address labels, not ANYTHING. Do not pay a modeling agency for photography services, pay the photographer. Do not pay an agency for comp cards, pay the printing company.

provided by: http://www.modelsadvocate.com/

Thursday, July 24, 2008

lesson from a lady.

I recently came across this great autobiography piece by successful Canadian model, Stacey McKenzie...enjoy...

"When I first got into modeling in Paris, I did not have any money to buy the nice clothing I craved for, hell I lived in a studio apartment in the outskirts of Paris not knowng how I was going to pay rent and eat for the month.
I use to go to a place called Gerasol to shop for my clothing. Gerasols are broke down secondhand stores where you can get clothing for 10 francs ($1/2). I made the best with what I had. I always walked with my head held high in my $1″JPG printed dress” and my $1 “Sergio Rossi stilletos”, you would think I was Naomi when you saw me coming down the street!

Don’t get me wrong, I would feel bad at times that I couldnt get that beautiful NEW dress and shoes I saw on one of my window shopping trips in the Marais. I did not let it get to me because I did not want that to define me as a person. Unfortunately in this business it does and if you are not careful it can take over your life.

I remember when I went to my first agency dinner, the owner of the agency did not like me one bit because, of all things MY LOOK! I sat at that table OWNING my Gerasol dress and shoes having a great time. Not long afterward, the owner of the agency starts making fun of me. This man made fun of my looks, my voice and my clothing the entire night. I was really paining inside, but for some reason I continued smiling and having a good time..."

read the rest here

love for sessilee.

love the blog. love her.


fashion fades to white.

investigation prostitution:

An anonymous readers' confession earlier this week on exchanging favours for finances got me really curious as to what was really going on out there in the runway realm...

So I scoured the net for anything and everything I could find...turning up some rather interesting reads:

From Runways to Redlight Districts

BBC Expose

I would like to stress that this is not to reflect all models. But, this is definitely an issue that is lurking in the crevices of the backstage world of fashion.

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

dubai has arrived.

From time to time, new markets in the land of fashion pop up, providing models with a whole new experience and whole other place to make a living.
A few weeks ago, I bumped into a friend of mine who had just signed a contract in Dubai, and was anxiously awaiting to dip into their market. Once upon a time, models never thought of taking off across the far seas to live and work in mainland China and Hong Kong, which are now both very lucrative markets...when you sign with a legitmate agency, of course. And now, it seems Dubai has been officially added to that list.
See Model Resources' story on Dubai written last year by a booker...

When it comes to new markets, or even a place that is just new to yourself, the best way to know what its all about is to speak with models who have been there...a reliable and trustworthy source that you can count on giving on honest opinion and advice.

the beef on botox.

Yahoo answers, "Is 23 too young to get botox???"

GET THE STORY HERE




ARE BOTOX PARTIES A GOOD IDEA???

Friday, July 18, 2008

m m m mia

I'm Mia. Undercover. Fashion Industry Analyst. I lead a quiet, simple life involving headbands and stilettos.

I dance and dream and kiss strangers and friends.


Gossip and truthful tales and talking behind peoples' backs is what I do best.


I vow to unveil the inner workings of the inner circle of the inner fashion industry of the inner city. Stay tuned to be shocked and awed.

Stay tuned for my stories.


i had sex for money.

"Sometimes its hard being a model. You go through phases in certain seasons and cities where you'll be like crazy busy, and then the next thing you know things start to quiet down. And of course, when you're booking the jobs and making the cash you spend money just as quickly as you make it. I met this guy a few years ago. older guy. not sleezy in any sense. I needed some cash for rent. I ended up sleeping with him, and not necessarily getting paid for sex, but he knew i needed the help and he gave me $2000. From then on out whenever we met he paid me. I still see him once in a while. It's kinda nice because I don't really like being in relationships, so this way we have our casual dates and whatnot. no stress. I don't feel like a hooker. I don't really see it that way for some reason. But I guess that's basically what it is, since it's pretty much just sex and money. I think maybe on some fucked up subconcious level that I feel it's okay since modelling jobs in a sense is all about selling your body. I am not speaking on behalf of other models. This is just me myself and i.

It's weird how it all just sort of happened. It's not like I intended to start profiting off of sleeping with some guy. It was more like this unspoken agreement just occurred. We both knew. And I don't sleep with other people under those pretenses. In a way, it has kind of just become like another booking. And, whatever, we have fun together, my bills get paid, no strings attached; my kind of relationship."

-an anonymous reader

do your research.

girl signs contract. girl goes to shanghai. girl gets murdered. agency disappears into thin air. agency was in a shit box apartment. shit box apartment was in a shady side of town. mother agency was in vancouver. mother agency was a douche bag. modelling jobs turned into bar jobs. dollars at the disco. getting paid to party. bills to befriend boys. boy was bad. whatever happened to the runway. pages in a magazine. could've gone to paris. lost in shanghai. do your research.

i heart you. period.



where its at
image source

so long mon cherie

a tribute to the real first supermodel. Dorian Leigh may you rest in peace.






more on Dorian Leigh

image source

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

face the facts and eat something

Oh the good old never-ending debate about skinny models. So much has been in the media over this topic and the answers seem to always point to a) the models are pre-puberty and not yet developed and/or b) still starving themselves. These write-ups and mentions always piss me off because a) it does not represent the industry as a whole and b) it sets an example for young girls to actually starve themselves. And believe it or not, some of the shit young girls are saying and doing to themselves when it comes it body image is fucking unbelievable. Excuse my language, but something needs to be said and start getting into people's heads...

So, readers, I bring you proof, in the form of other readers reaching out to support this fashion frenzy.

Meet Ana, a skinny twenty-five year old model...yes, past the age of puberty. Ana is 5'10" and weighs 118lbs., and her measurements are 34,24,34. Ana also eats not three, but several meals and snacks throughout the day. Here, readers, is her food journal throughout two working days...without making herself puke, ever. Ana has never suffered from an eating disorder. Ana has been a so-called 'waif' her entire life, and although is now considered to be a physically mature woman, maintaining her perfect haute couture proportions has never been a challenge.

MONDAY
9am - banana, oatmeal, coffee, glass of water
11am - crossaint, bottle of cranberry juice
1:30pm - tuna sandwich on whole wheat bagel, spinach salad, bottle of water
3pm - orange, dried apricots, coffee
7pm - chicken breast with stir-fried mixed veggies, bottle of water
10pm - strawberry yogurt cup, glass of iced tea

TUESDAY
8am - bagel with cream cheese, coffee
10:30am - banana, almonds, bottle of water
1pm - meal-sized grilled chicked salad, glass of iced tea
2pm - box of smarties, bottle of water
5pm - apple, coffee
8pm - grilled shrimp, portabello mushroom risotto, 2 glasses of chardonnay
11pm - bottle of water

So, my friends, believe it or not, some of us are just simply skinny. Others are not. Face the facts...and eat something.

in the news...


Canadian model murdered in Shanghai??

Check out the article on Yahoo...

Twenty-two year old Diana Gabrielle O'Brien lost her life while modelling in Shanghai. What once seemed like a both safe and profitable market leaves models questioning what went wrong. Get the story here.

More on the Shanghai Market coming later this week.

Image source

big IS beautiful...

Successful AND beautiful plus-size model tells all...

get it here!



Even Tyra and the rest of the America's Next Top Model squad believe so...and it's about time ALL women of the world can feel a little bit better about themselves...as the latest season of the reality runway show crowned a not-so-stick-figure Whitney Thompson as the winner...


Image source and story here!

Friday, May 9, 2008

Are you F*CKING kidding me?


If you so happen to be a member on the chronic epidemic of today's computer-savvy youth, which calls itself facebook, then you undeniably, absolutely must take a look at this:
A group on facebook, entitled "Fuck weighing 3 digits," describes itself as...quote - -
"This is a group designed to those of us who wish to be under 100 pounds. Being 80 lbs IS sexy, and skeletons are beautiful! One in 5 of us have an eating disorder, and no, it is NOT a problem!" - - unquote.
Idolizing Nicole Ritchie and stating remarks such as 'Don't worry Nicole, you'll lose that extra ten pounds,' and discussing purging on the infamous wall, this group is a meeting place for insane little girls who have no concept on what 'beautiful' truly means.
So, ya, this is supposed to be a fashion blog. But, once in a while, when something catches my attention, it simply can't be ignored. It is wrong to say that all 'skinny' people have an eating disorder, yes. It is wrong to believe that all models force their tiny bodies to look that way. Some figures are naturally that small. Key word there: naturally. Natural is not only beautiful, but healthy! People with eating disorders aren't exactly glowing, exuding beauty. Everyone in existance has a natural form. Embrace it. Eat healthy. Eat regularly. Indulge in some physical activity every now and again. Be beautiful.

DON'T tell my BOOKER.

SEX. DRUGS. ROCK n ROLL. In the land of pretty little things, sometimes life just ain't all that pretty. Not to say that its all out of a fashion horror film, but in the dark crevices of the world of fashion, evil is lurking.

Imagine a fairytale land where fifteen year old girls live 'happily ever after' in model apartments across the ocean and have druglords for agents. Well, in one particular case anyway. And where boys sleep with bookers in order to maintain mutual co-operation. This, my friends, is not fiction; it is fashion, through the eyes of babes not yet old enough to know how to do their own laundry.

Closer to home, yet still far enough off into the distance, models were sent in for a certain fashion week from a rather not-so-well-off country to prance the catwalk for a lesser price than the homegrown talent. Word on the street is that they were then disposed of to gentlemen callers for a little one-on-one private viewing, if you know what i mean.

Whether its wrong, or very wrong, being lucky enough to have been brought up in North America, I don't know if I am able to answer or fully understand that question. Without knowing the history of where these girls are coming from, perhaps being a fashion 'whore' in a place such as New York City doesn't seem all that bad to them.

One thing I do know is where there's bad, there's that much more good and it's more than possible to have a positive career in this chaotic business in which we call fashion. Just be aware of those dark crevices.

Wednesday, May 7, 2008

Age ain't nothin' but a Number



A far cry from the truth in the cut-throat world of modelling. Since the beginning of time, women have lied, or stretched the truth if you will, when it comes to the age factor. So, why is it so difficult for a model once they leave their teens behind?

A model can make it to twenty-five bending the truth, and beyond that if they have a miraculous face cream. But even though they may still appear to have that certain youthful je ne c'est quoi, once the cat's out of the bag, the bookings seem to disappear into thin air.

With girls as young as thirteen prowling the runways, where do the seasoned girls fit in? Although it may be a very likely scenario that the regular clients will still book that 'elderly' girl, it eventually becomes more and more difficult for the more sophisticated, numerically-challenged model to book gigs.

So, what is the moral of the story you ask? Point being, models should always have that back-up profession stored away somewhere safe so its ready to be put in place at any given moment. You know, that dream job that we all fantasized about when we were little kids. Come on, being a runway model wasn't at the top of the list at age five.

Thursday, November 1, 2007

who are you?

Greetings, Friends, Citizens and Fellow Apartment Dwellers,This is Ryan Oakley, who some of you may know as The Grumpy Owl. I would like to bring your attention to an issue that is important to me and, I suppose, to you, The Fashion Community. Yesterday I received an email from the anonymous creators of an online petition, which demanded transparency in L'Oreal Fashion Week. In doing so, they managed to give me all of your email addresses. Worse still, they gave you mine. Something like this can only result in mass emailings from crackpots like myself. But please, hear me out. Although I found it uncomfortable that a group who demands transparency is remaining anonymous, I was willing to give them the benefit of the doubt. I did as they asked in their last correspondence. "We hope you understand our reasons for remaining anonymous for the time being." I understood. They are cowards. I expect that. But, when they invaded my privacy by sending all of you people my email address, they ceased to be the run of the mill swine and became repugnant hypocrites. Why should they retain the luxury of anonymity while they deny basic privacy to me? Just who are these people? More importantly, just who do they think they are? Whether or this was just accidental stupidity on their part or purposeful idiocy is irrelevant. The simple fact is this: Their request for anonymity has become completely untenable. I can no longer support it. I'm asking you to sign a petition, demanding that they reveal their identity. If they wish the Mayor and Ms. Robin Kay to respond to theirs, it only seems right that they respond to ours. It would be a good first step to regaining some credibility.

The petition:
http://www.ipetitions.com/petition/Anonymity/

Best Wishes,
Ryan Jack Arthur Oakley
http://thegrumpyowl.blogspot.com/

Friday, October 19, 2007

sincerely yours, the fashion community of toronto

OKAY...so, this is a long write-up...but this mysterious person or person(s) have been mass-emailing this to anyone and everyone who has anything to do with fashion in the city...who are these people??? We may never know...but, here's what they have to say....
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

We would like to bring to your attention an issue which is of importance to the city of Toronto and to the fashion industry.
We believe the current leadership at the FDCC is inconsistent with the values and goals which make Toronto and Canada the best place to operate a fashion related business.
Many in the community have faced inappropriate conduct from Robin Kay – President of the Fashion Design Council of Canada.

In this letter we will provide details of our concerns and actions we feel are most appropriate to provide the needed reform.
Our intention is not to disrupt the upcoming L'Oreal Fashion Week but ensure that there is constructive debate about the keys issues concerning the fashion industry and much needed reform of the FDCC.

A petition board has been set up for fashion industry professionals to voice their opinions and to vote for a reform of the fdcc
http://www.ipetitions.com/petition/FDCC/

What are the real benefits to designers ?
Every year the fashion community is dazzled by fashion and models on the runway at the semi annual L'Oreal Fashion Week.; but there is a need to look past all the glitz and glam and examine at a deeper level the activities and value that L'Oreal Fashion Week and the FDCC provide to the fashion industry.

Is anyone buying ?
The buying season is over when fashion week starts. Budgets are already allocated for the season. The publicity does create brand awareness for consumers but the effectiveness is lost as consumers will not be able to purchase the outfits in stores for another 6 months. Designers have long complained that without sales designers simply do not achieve a financial ROI from fashion week in Toronto.
Designers invest anywhere from $5,000 to $20,000 for FDCC registration fees, models, PR, stylists, etc. to participate in L'Oreal Fashion week.
The sizeable investment needs to drive sales for their collections.
*** The individuals quoted in this letter are quoted as part of the research conducted in providing an assessment of the FDCC. The quotations are all published on the web with links to the complete articles. The quotations in no way signifies the quoted individual's support of this letter.
A quotation from the Toronto Fashion Incubator Blog – November 2006
BUYER BE AWARE: FDCC president Robin Kay avows fashion week is not a buyers' show but bang-for-buck, wouldn't it be more beneficial if buyers were around to gain awareness of new labels they might want to sign on in future? The total number of registered buyers was 33 and the total number of registered retailers was 14. (Although designers also sent out invitations, raising the total.)
http://www.fashionincubator.com/happenings/newsletter/tfi-news-november-2006.shtml
(according to the city of Toronto Website there are more than 4,600 Toronto fashion retail stores )
Stylist Derick Chetty October 19, 2006
While I'm all for international press covering L'Oreal Fashion Week, I have to wonder if it is of any value to anyone, especially the designers. Yes, you can argue it's great exposure, building brand awareness etc., but does it translate into dollars and cents? Most of the designers are small operations with no international sales offices. And there's just a handful of buyers from local retailers that attend the shows. So how is coverage in a European magazine/website/newspaper helping their bottom line when they can barely get their lines sold here in Canada? Derick Chetty
http://thestar.blogs.com/nakedlunch/2006/10/loreal_fashion_.html
Membership
The FDCC operating procedures are not consistent with FDCC bylaws and the legal requirements of operating a not for profit corporation in Canada.
As stated on the FDCC website
www.lorealfashionweek.ca/fdcc/fdcc.html
The FDCC is a national Canadian organization dedicated to branding fashion in Canada. Through realizing that mission, the FDCC
Promotes the diverse fabric of Canadian fashion design talent.
Links buyers with designers, media with buzz, and business executives with product.
And produces an event in the elite category of Fashion Week that includes fashion aficionados from around the world.Since 1999, this non-profit organization has focused its energy on high-quality events, publicity and membership. Outside of L'Oréal Fashion Week, it takes part in global events to enhance the knowledge and awareness of the Canadian fashion design industry. The FDCC contains a Board of Directors which seats successful and nationally recognized Canadian fashion and business executives.
The membership form and all information pertaining to membership has disappeared from the FDCC website. As a not for profit association for the fashion industry it has a mandate to consistently recruit and serve new members in industry. Why has the membership form been removed from the FDCC website ?
We have included the membership form as an attachment to this email.

Membership for designers:
Stated in the FDCC Designer Information Package for L'Oreal Fashion Week - designers must be a member of the FDCC to showcase at L'oreal Fashion week.
Designers we interviewed and who have showcased at L'Oreal Fashion Week in previous years have yet to receive any official acknowledgement of membership, invitation to member meetings or audited financial statements.
The FDCC has not given proper notice, as governed by law, to participating designers of an annual general meeting where members traditionally review the audited financial statements and annual report for the past year and vote on key issues impacting the organization for the ensuing year.

Corporations Canada the definition of a not for profit.
Not-for-profit organizations are created to benefit the community. Activities of a not-for-profit organization may be of a trade, patriotic, national, charitable, philanthropic, religious, professional, or athletic nature without monetary gain. Directors, officers and/or members of a not-for-profit corporation do not own the corporation or its assets. The organization may not be operated for financial gain for its members, officers or directors. In certain circumstances a not-for-profit organization may engage in revenue producing activities and earn a profit, however these activities are to be conducted solely to further the principal objectives of the organization.
Members must approve changes made to the by-laws by the corporation's directors before they have effect
Members must have notice of meetings.
Each member is entitled to one vote at a meeting of members.
Board of directors shall be elected at each annual meeting
A director of a not for profit organization can be removed office by a special vote of the members

Accountability
Board members of a not for profit corporation are accountable to its members, a number of industry professionals believe Robin Kay is not accountable to anyone.

Tim Blanks – fashion file
Toronto Highlights - Spring/Summer 2007
"It may have a ways to go in comparison to its older, more fashionable cousins, but like an awkward defiant teen trying to find its identity amongst Paris, Milan and New York, Toronto Fashion Week thumbs its nose at the naysayers, without feeling the need to answer to anyone."
http://www.fashionfile.com/designers/Highlights.html

All not-for profit directors are potentially accountable to someone or some entity, often to multiple parties. This accountability can take many forms: annual general meetings where members can vote to replace directors they have lost confidence in or make changes to governance documents that affect the board; administrative or judicial penalties imposed owing to regulatory non-compliance; reporting requirements to funders; and court actions mounted by dissatisfied stakeholders.
New legislation by the Government which Enhances and Protects Members' Rights: The new Act will also enhance and protect member rights. By doing so, it will promote active membership and encourage members to monitor the directors' activities. Members will have the power to enforce their rights and oversee the activities of their organizations. They will have the power to access corporate records (most importantly, the financial statements); access membership lists (subject to certain restrictions); request a meeting and to make proposals; use the oppression remedy and the compliance order to protect their rights; and use the derivative action remedy to enforce the rights of the corporation. The oppression remedy allows members to seek relief from a court if they believe their rights have been "oppressed". A derivative action allows members to launch a suit, in the name of the corporation itself, if they believe that directors or officers of the corporation have acted improperly.
http://strategis.gc.ca/epic/site/cilp-pdci.nsf/en/cl00754e.html

Structure of the FDCC
Robin Kay does not own the Fashion Design Council of Canada (the FDCC evolved from Association of Ontario Fashion Designers) nor do the board of directors own the FDCC. A not for profit is a corporation without share capital (shares cannot be issued) -- the real owners of the FDCC are its members – the fashion industry of Canada, including designers, photographers, models, media, retailers, anyone who one way or another supports Canadian fashion has a stake in the FDCC.
Membership must be open to all fashion industry professionals

Where does all of the money go ?
We have heard figures of anywhere form $400,000 to 2 million sponsorship from L'Oreal.
How much does Ford Canada and the other sponsors contribute ?
Fashion Design Council of Canada (FDCC) received Government funding of $145,000 for projects from 2003 to 2007
Members, the fashion community and taxpayers have a right to know the funds raised and where it is spent. How much of the funds actually go towards Robin Kay's salary and the hiring for her publicists ? How are the contracts allocated for the FDCC ?

False and fraudulent statement
Robin Kay is discouraging companies to sponsor designers to produce their shows during fashion week and instead sponsor the FDCC directly. Producing shows for fashion week are quite costly and includes expenses for models, mandatory publicists, press kits, props and additional incidental expenses.

Her statement that the FDCC does not charge designers is completely false. A simple survey of designers who have participated will reveal that the FDCC charges designers to participate in L'Oreal Fashion Week.

Interview with Robin Kay and Bizbash magazine

Unfortunately, we're facing the issue of sponsors bypassing the FDCC and connecting to individual designers. It's guerrilla or piggyback marketing, and it's costing us money. We raise funds to put on the shows, and we don't charge the designers, so we need all the sponsor income we can get. The companies that are supporting individual designers could just as easily support us. We have a sponsorship package that offers no end of opportunities for them to gain exposure on-site at the shows. More important, the public relations machine we've created at FDCC would generate media exposure for them that they wouldn't otherwise get.
http://www.bizbash.com/toronto/content/editorial/e5444.php

According to the Designer Information Package -- L'Oreal Fashion Week Spring 2007
http://www.dexigner.com/design_news/6187.html
Fee: TBDDesigner fees are dependent on desired timeslots. Designers must select timeslot appropriately and within prospected budgets. All fees are non-negotiable.
Designers are charged anywhere from $2500 to $5000 by the FDCC to participate during L'Oreal Fashion week.

Conduct and Behavior
Over the years Robin Kay has openly maligned the reputations of those who do not agree with her. Many individuals and companies who have shown promise for innovation and leadership have been shut out as potential competitors and a threat to her position as "the Queen of fashion in Canada". Companies and individuals have been blacklisted by Miss Kay and her associates and their reputations subsequently smeared. Miss Kay continues to treat people who do not serve her purpose with disrespect and contempt.

Fashion and Design Festival
The recent fashion and design festival was an example innovative approach to marketing Canadian Fashion. An event which showcased 16 local designers.
Her statements to the Toronto Star were generally deemed as being unsupportive. Any group that tries to steal the FDCC's thunder is usually admonished by Robin Kay.
"It's inappropriate that people from Quebec would use an acronym similar to the FDCC," says Robin Kay, president of the Fashion Design Council of Canada.
She'd also like to see more people from Ontario hired by festival organizers, considering it's the Toronto version of the Montreal festival. "The people who are managing it and producing it are all from Montreal. Their working people, their technicians, show producers" are mainly from Montreal, she says.
But Kay hopes the event is a success and thinks the strategy to use retailers in the fashion shows is a good move for the city.
"We can't disparage that, because the mall has to make their rent," Kay says of the retail element of the shows, but adds, "maybe it's best left in the mall, because it looks pretty rainy these days."
http://www.thestar.com/living/Fashion/article/248839

It should be noted that Robin Kay brought in a group from Montreal to produce the opening night party at fashion week in spring 2007 which mainly utilized a team from Montreal to produce the show.
Get on Robin Kay's bad side and be prepared for an onslaught by Robins Kay's clique, who are instructed by Ms. Kay to, damage your reputation at every opportunity and make things as difficult as possible for you to do business in Toronto.
Designers, public relation consultants, media, retailers and other industry representatives have received calls from FDCC staff members with suggestions not to work with certain parties and with the clear inference that doing so may result in their not being invited back for fashion week.

Modelresource's preview to L'Oréal Fashion Week stated "if there isn't a marked improvement in the organization of this year's event things could get ugly quickly."
For my part, I was flooded with feedback following my opening day review . The messages came from people formerly connected with the Fashion Design Council of Canada, from agency staff, from models and from parents of models. Each and every message supported my stance that the FDCC's judgement was often flawed, or its intentions poorly communicated. Dan Grant - Modelresource
http://www.modelresource.ca/Shows/FashionWeek_FW06/recap.shtml

Arrogance that's knows no bounds
"I don't think there would be a Canadian fashion industry without L'Oreal Fashion Week," the Fashion Design Council of Canada's Robin Kay told Canada AM last Monday.

It's no wonder that the FDCC employs three PR consultants – it seems every time she opens her mouth she sticks both feet in it

New York has its Anna Wintour – Toronto has Robin Kay.

Robin Kay – conviction for trafficking cocaine ?
In conducting the research on the FDCC and Robin Kay our team unearthed an article by Leanne Delap (current fashion editor Globe and Mail) and Ceri Marsh (current Editor-in-Chief of FASHION Magazine )written in 2001 as quoted from the Ryerson Review of Journalism
Another notable piece was "She Used to Be Robin Kay," which ran in the Summer 2000 issue. "Robin was a big Canadian brand at one time, and when we started to do the research and interviews, things just started coming out of the woodwork," says Fashion news director Ceri Marsh. The article chronicled the tale of Robin Kay, a sweater designer and environmental entrepreneur, and her conviction for trafficking cocaine. "We were so excited that we got to send a story to the lawyer," says Delap. "We thought, We are doing something right."
http://www.rrj.ca/issue/2001/summer/344/
We are not confirming that Miss Kay has been convicted but simply referencing an article - this needs to be verified by the police to determine if Miss Kay has actually been convicted of cocaine trafficking.
Conclusion
The fashion industry in Canada is simply not willing to tolerate Ms. Robin Kay's behavior any more. Robin Kay is a tyrant and their simply is no place for tyrant as President of the Fashion Design Council of Canada.
It is now time for a much needed change in leadership, the community desperately needs a leader that will genuinely earn the respect of the community, one who has ability to bring together members of the fashion community instead of alienating many who have contributed to the industry.
Ask many in the industry and they simply say "Robin Kay and the FDCC are very difficult to work with".
Many designers and industry professionals are afraid to speak up against Robin Kay in fear of being expelled from L'Oreal Fashion Week.
Her arrogant behavior has caused discontent and divided many in the fashion community over the years. Many designers, industry representatives and buyers have silently boycotted L'Oreal Fashion week due to the politics and reputation of the FDCC.
Fashion designers need to take back control of L"Oreal fashion week and the Fashion Design Council of Canada.

Recommendations:

Investigation into the workings of the Fashion Design Council of Canada to ensure that it is compliant with the polices for operating a not for profit in Canada.

Membership be open to all members of the fashion industry.

All fashion designers have a vote in the workings of the FDCC.

Notices for meetings and AGM be communicated publically on the FDCC website.

An Ombudsperson be set up to investigate any complaints against Robin Kay and the FDCC.

A study be conducted to determine the most effective strategy for Canadian designers to gain greater market share in Canadian retail stores.

All levels of Government take a greater role in the workings of the FDCC and include fashion weeks across the country.

Industry representatives sign up for membership and vote Robin Kay off the board of directors and President of the FDCC.

Finally for the FDCC to remain a credible organization and meet the needs of Canadian designer, requires new leadership – someone who can reach out to the community at all levels. Someone who has leadership to make everyone feel welcome regardless of their position, ethnic background, socio economic status and interest in supporting Canadian fashion.

A petition board has been set up for fashion industry professionals to voice their opinions and to vote for a reform of the fdcc
http://www.ipetitions.com/petition/FDCC/

Regards,

The fashion community of Toronto

Friday, October 12, 2007

the boot


Scenario: Model gets booked for high profile fashion show and mysteriously is not given the details, which results in model not showing up for said fashion show...
Now, some of you may be thinking negligence on behalf of the agency or the actual model; but, guess what, this could very likely, simply, be another case of 'the boot', or in other words, the good ol' switcheroo.
Let's say an agent has a certain model on their roster that they are trying to get out there and push, which happens to not be that certain model that booked that certain show. So, what happens here is the agent 'mistakingly' does not give the show details to the booked model, and, alternatively, gives them to the model in which they are trying to push.
So, you would think that all would be happy and merry backstage come show day, right?? Wrong. The designers end up pissed off since they didn't get the model they booked...and the agent, in all likelihood, puts the blame on the model who 'didn't show' in order to not blow the cover on ' the boot.' So now, a model's reputation hangs in the rafters, a designer is pissed off, and an agent gets away with a scheme thats been going on for decades.
This, my friends, is the boot.

Sunday, October 7, 2007

memorable moments

we can always have faith that john galliano
will do not much less than impress.





john galliano ready to wear ss'08

farewell until we meet again!

image source

sign on the dotted line


'to be with contract, or without; that is the question.'
three words: DON'T DO IT!
so you wanna be a model do ya...well, just because you got suckered into signing a three year contract with some sleezy city slicker, does not make you the next daria or giselle. before you pick up the pen, think this one through: if they've got you tied down for three years, how hard do they really need to work for you? on the other hand, that lucky duck down the block who was just plucked from the pack by one of the city's best agents, is booking gigs left, right and centre - - guess why? that lucky duck is so lucky because she's working with one of the many agency's in the city that don't do contracts - - if they want to keep that girl on the wall, first they've got to keep her satisfied. if she doesn't work...lucky duck moves on to the next booker in town.
so, my pretties, the contract doesn't make the model. the contract simply, well, f**ks the model. on average, models move from agency to agency atleast once every two years for so many different reasons; dispute, bookers move on to something younger, better, fresher; it's key to love your booker and have your booker love you, so, this can turn into somewhat of a challenge at times. what happens if things go down the tubes and you're stuck for three years??? think you can get out of that signature early?? think you can work elsewhere behind their back?? think again...small world...smaller industry...people talk...that's all we do. and trust me, a model has been sued a time or two since the beginning of style.
if a contract is absolutely, positively necessary...stay in the clear...make it a year;)